By: Shade Rushmore

My first girlfriend’s name was Donna Karan. When I met her, I also met her best friend, Fashion. Donna walked me down the path of understanding. She made it known that it was okay for a college student to wear something other than baggy pants and a t-shirt. She introduced me to sport coats and pants that are sent off for the cuffs to be finished. (You can even pick how you want them done!) I had new and untouched credit cards when we first met. I spent a lot of time with her picking out new shirts and glamorous ties. I acquired nice belts; they ran the gamut from flashy with large buckles to more conservative and sophisticated. My selections were very chic. They had to be. I had an image to uphold in the arduous world of the nocturnal gossip circles that existed in the Austin nightlife. I was famous. People predicted what I would be wearing while they were getting dressed to go out themselves.

If you get to the club before 11:30 p.m., you are not cool. You must have a decent line established outside the venue in order to make your grande entrée. Swooping past numbers of club kids, strippers on a night off, models like that girl who was in that one ad in the Chronicle (remember her?), wannabes, and the checkout guy at Nieman’s Last Call, for some reason inflates the ego. And then you turn 20.

I don’t see Donna K. much any more, but her friend Fashion and I keep in touch. The credit cards are now off limits and as an adult working to pay off college debt, spending huge amounts of money on a single piece of clothing just doesn’t make sense. I now look for clothing that can make the cross between smart casual office wear and the eloquent surroundings of a mahogany laden jazz bar.

For the past 15 years, retail and clothing have been some part of my life. My mother began working as a manager in one of the country’s largest department stores. The benefit to me was a decent discount on clothing and shoes. Sure, Stephen Moser would claim that true fashion is not found in the department stores but rather in the quaint boutiques of 5th Avenue and Beverly Hills. As a Texan stuck smack dab in the middle of the country, I would have to disagree.

I always vowed never to work in a mall, but as they say, “never say never.” I ended up following my mother’s footsteps and became an area sales manager in the same company for the women’s line, which grossed seven million that year. I left there and ran a men’s clothing store. Unfortunately I joined right as they were ditching their dressy style for the Abercrombie & Fitch look. Unkempt, untucked, worn-out, rugged, casual. This was the style. More or less, back to the college look.

I no longer work for a clothing company, so I am not stuck wearing the merchandise. That is not to say I don’t miss it. My better half is a manager for a mid-scale trendy women’s retailer, and through her I keep up with the direction that Fashion is going.

Kenny Cole and Perry Ellis are my friends now. I haven’t yet succumbed to the Gap, or even worse, Old Navy. On occasion it makes sense for men to get a onesy there--a tight white t-shirt, or a pair of jeans perhaps. Maybe some socks and underwear. Kenny and Perry allow me to look good and can transition from work to socializing quite well—all without draining the bank account.

It feels good to dress up. It should feel good. We have all seen images of the 1940’s. Even a poor man looked svelte compared to today. People make it seem like such an effort. I for one am most comfortable in a suit. I don’t feel downtrodden or cumbersome. Your suit and dress clothes should be the most comfortable things you own. How can they not be? The jacket and pants are custom fitted to your exact specifications. A suit also gives the appearance of authority and respect. It also makes people not notice so much the more unattractive aspects of a man’s physique. (Imagine for a moment the last time you saw a group of businessmen walking down Congress, or a press conference on TV. Who had a gut?)

For a young professional on a budget, Dillard’s and Foley’s come to mind for getting some deals on clothing. Both stores have a twice-annual suit sale, usually around Father’s Day. One can pick up a stylish Ralph Lauren, low-end Hugo Boss or Kritzia for around $175. That is really a steal for a decent suit. Sure, it won’t last as long as a Hart Schaffner & Marx, but you get what you pay for.

· Have a belt for every dress shoe. Black is black, in most cases when dealing with leather. However, brown is NOT ALWAYS the same shade. A nice pair of Cole Haan wingtips or Bally slip-ins might require a matching belt. Always buy the belt and shoes together so there is no guessing.

· Your wallet should match your shoe and belt combo. While it doesn't have to be exact, it needs to be in the same color scheme. No black wallets with brown shoes and a brown belt. If you prefer a leather money clip, this rule also applies. A way around this is to buy a metal money clip-silver or gold-to use with all of your schemes. Brief cases can be any color. Chose something neutral.

· This is important. Men should have several pairs of nice dress shoes. Dress shoes should be treated like living beings. They need to rest. Most men tend to have sweaty feet. Switch between pairs, rotating each day. This allows for the shoe to dry out. Owning two pair of black and two pair of brown shoes is the ideal situation. When you buy a pair of shoes, ALWAYS buy a set of CEDAR shoetrees. Don't buy a pair of plastic shoetrees at the grocery store. Each shoe should have its own shoetrees. The cedar acts both as a sponge and a deodorizer as it absorbs water and replaces any smell with a refreshing wood scent. The shoetrees will keep your shoes in top form and looking good for many years. Spending around $200 on a decent pair of dress shoes will go a long way if the shoes are cared for correctly. Nice dress shoes can be resoled and will provide top comfort for years to come.

· Wear a decent watch. Don't wear a sport watch with a cloth band. A watch with a metal band is much more professional. I once worked with a guy who was a tri-athlete. He wore nice suit, but when we were in meetings his sleeve would pull up and expose a Nike sports watch with timers and lights. This didn't accurately complete the look. He looked like he was about to yank off his suit and join a marathon.

· In my opinion there is a line in men's fashion that shouldn't be crossed. That line is between looking "polished" and looking "slick." Polished is a clean crisp look with just the right accessories. This doesn't equal conservative necessarily, but is the right choice of colors with all the right pieces. Slick means too many rich colors and an over abundance of accessories. Polished gives the impression of control and knowing how to dress, while slick seems more like an attempt by someone to dress well who doesn't know how. A fish out of water.

· Keep your clothes looking good. Have shirts laundered with a medium starch. Suit coats need not be cleaned very often, depending on the wearer. Suits themselves should only be worn once every eight days. This means that pants can go eight to twelve weeks with out being dry-cleaned. Make sure the pants get creased. Shoes should be shined always. No exceptions. Shoes are the most important part of completing a look. A professional shine is preferred every two weeks with touch-ups in between by the wearer. This is accomplished with a can of polish and a horsehair shoe brush.

· Other: A man should also have an overcoat for inclement weather. A nice umbrella too. A handkerchief should always be tucked inside a coat pocket for emergencies. A set of rubber shoe covers for rainy days. Socks are ALWAYS the color of the shoes.